All of the guide book pictures and route information have been supplied by SongQin and www.guilinlife.com. Thanks guys!! Without your help this would not have been possible!

Click on the below picture to enlarge.

Thumb Peak
Num
Grade
Name
First Ascent
# of bolts
Length(m)
Anchor
1a
5.9
Happy New Year
Ken
9
27
topchain
1b
5.8
 
Ken
9
18
topchain
1c
5.9
 
Ken
8
22
topchain
1d
5.9
 
Ken
9
23
topchain
1e
5.10b
 
Ken
6
15
topchain
2a
5.6
 
Real Climbers
Trad
25
 
2b
5.7
 
Real Climbers
Trad
23
 
2c
5.9
 
Real Climbers
Trad
27
 
2d
5.9
 
Real Climbers
Trad
25
 
2e
5.8
 
Real Climbers
Trad
25
 
3
5.8

Guangtouzongzi(chimney)

LAOTIE
8
21
topchain
4
5.8
 
 
2
9
2hanger
5
5.10a
 
19
topchain
6
5.11c
JINGZHOU
LAOTIE
7
20
2hanger
7
5.10b
RICHMAN
LAOTIE, LIUXINAN, WANGER & ZHONG
7
19
topchain
8
5.12a
YASUIQIAN
LAOTIE, LIUXINAN, WANGER & ZHONG
6
19
topchain
9
5.11a
REDBULL
 
6
20
topchain
10
5.8
 (INSIDE CAVE)
LAOTIE & MANYU
4
9
topchain
11
5.8/5.10a
 (INSIDE CAVE)
LAOTIE
3
9
topchain

12

5.7/5.10a
 (INSIDE CAVE)
10
2hanger

Thumb Peak

Thumb Peak is a beautiful place located just down the road form Butterfly cave on the right hand side of the road. Getting off at Butterfly Cave is probably the easiest things until you know there the path is. Just walk 3 - 4 minutes down the road from the entrance to the Butterfly Cave, looking always to your left for a stone plate placed across a small stream and walk across. You will see the roofs on the cliff. About a 2 minute walk.

Palm trees, local farmers, and water buffalo all will increase your enjoyment of being there. The first climb you come to is the most creative beginner climbs in Yangshuo (a fantastic 5.9), and you can immediately top rope (there are no bolts, but you will see the anchors) the 5.10a as you are lowering for a better warm up. Around the corner to the right are the rest of the climbs. You can reach there through the cave to the right of the 5.9, and climb the easy 2 meters up to the routes. The 5.10c is fantastic, and be careful of the inappropriate runout on the 5.11c, even though it is on easy moves, the clip is not the best. The 5.12a has the biggest roof in Yangshuo.

 

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